Yamaha 60HP Outboard Output Seal Replacement
Replacing the output (prop) seals on a Yamaha 60 outboard doesn’t require removing the gearcase from the rest of the outboard, but you should replace the seals anyway if you’re already working on the lower unit.
Watch the video above and follow the steps below to change the output oil seals on a Yamaha 60HP outboard.
Tools and Parts Needed – Yamaha 60HP Output Seal Repair
- Flathead screwdriver
- Soft-blow hammers
- Drain pan
- Retaining ring remover
- Impact driver
How to Replace Yamaha 60HP Outboard Prop Seals
Step 1. Remove the gearcase oil fill level plug to make it easier for the lower unit oil to drain out.
NOTE: Make sure not to lose the washer that comes out with the bolt.
Step 2. Place a drain pan under the engine, then remove the lower unit oil drain bolt and let the gearcase oil drain out.
NOTE: If the oil has a milky appearance, that means the input or more likely the output shaft seals are leaking.
While the oil is draining, remove the various components that slide right off of the output shaft carrier assembly.
Step 3. Reach in and feel for a lock washer with a couple of different tabs. Bend the tab right at the bottom back with a soft-blow hammer and a metal pick to unlock it.
Step 4. Use a Yamaha retaining ring removal tool to remove the two lock washers.
Step 5. Use a puller tool to remove the bearing carrier assembly from inside the propeller shaft.
PRO TIP: We used a puller tool by Marine Tech, which makes easy work of pulling off this assembly.
Step 6. Remove the bearing carrier assembly and the small pin from the bottom of the assembly without losing it, as you need it to keep the assembly from rotating when you reinstall it inside the housing.
Step 7. Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the two output seals, one at a time.
NOTE: Don't push the screwdriver too hard into the housing, otherwise you're going to scratch it and it's going to leak.
Step 8. Remove the O-ring from the bearing carrier assembly and replace it with a new O-ring.
Step 9. Place a piece of wood and a towel on top of the wood underneath the bearing carrier assembly to protect it, then pick a driver that just barely fits to the inside of it to drive the new output seals in with a soft-blow hammer, one at a time, until it bottoms out.
Step 10. Pack some grease in between the two new output seals, and put a light coat of grease on the O-ring so it's easier to assemble.
Step 11. Place the bearing carrier assembly so that the little keyway (from where the pin was removed in Step 6) is down at the bottom while reinstalling it.
Step 12. Use a soft-blow hammer to get the O-ring to seat in.
NOTE: Seating the O-ring in with a soft-blow hammer prevents scarring on the output shaft, especially the splines.
Step 13. Reinstall the little square pin (removed in Step 6) and the lock washer.
Step 14. Clean up and then grease the threads on the other washer as you're reinstalling it, then torque the bearing carrier assembly to 76 foot-pounds.
NOTE: If you sense any resistance as you're bringing it down before it bottoms out, stop. Bring it back out, take another look, make sure there's no foreign material on the threads, and then try again.
Step 15. Bring the tab of the lock washer bent in Step 3 back down and you’re done.